Cour du Commerce Saint-André

Entered through a narrow archway on Boulevard Saint-Germain, Cour du Commerce Saint-André is one of the oldest covered passages in Paris, dating to 1776. Revolutionary history saturates the space: it was here that Dr. Guillotin reportedly tested his prototype guillotine on sheep in a building that once backed onto the medieval city wall (still visible through a restaurant window).

The passage also housed Jean-Paul Marat's revolutionary newspaper L'Ami du peuple, printed in the basement. Today, the cobblestoned lane is lined with small bistros, wine bars and a famous old-world café (Le Procope, established 1686 — Paris's oldest). The atmosphere is genuinely medieval and entirely lacking in tourist infrastructure. Best visited on a weekday evening for dinner.